I’ve been using a straight razor more and more on my man haircuts these days. I’m not really a fan of that crunchy hard “gel” look, so any and all texture that can be added to their hair just means less product needed for styling. One of my very favorite clients, Clay, (who I should mention is engaged to my good friend Jen B!) only uses a spritz or two of Ocean Mist, which he discovered because Jen uses it! The combination of the razor with the salty spray and his natural waves is like money in the bank. I don’t know how it’s like money in the bank, but I heard a rapper sing that and I knew I wanted to use it on my blog (I believe in honesty even when it proves that you’re a huge nerd.).

Oh, don’t let me forget the neckline! Undercutting the neckline so it lays softly is the key. I need a picture, don’t I?

Hairstylists, what’s your favorite trick for man haircuts? I like calling it a man haircut. It sounds caveman-ish.

My friend Sam Adams came in for a man make over last week. He recently left the world of male modeling for a more corporate career that requires him to wear suits and look a little more clean cut. I think we can all agree that all that blonde hair is amazing, but I was dancing around the salon with glee when he came in for the big change. Sam’s long hair is one of the first things people think of when they hear his name….also this…so being the one responsible for the change was a big job.

He came in asking for something a little retro, that could be worn different ways, and something that didn’t look like every other guy walking down the street. I cut the entire thing with my straight razor to give it the right texture, and left lots of length on the top so that it can be worn all kinds of different ways. It looks pretty clean cut here, but the top is quite long and looks very ’90s punk if worn down. I’ll have to take some more pictures of it!

I cut his sides really short towards the front, and gradually went longer as I got towards the back, so that he can comb his sides back for the Don Draper look.

Rumor has it he loves it, and equally as important, so does his wife

I have a few clients who literally have half curly/half straight hair. Meaning, the hair that grows from their crown is straight, and the hair that grows underneath is curly (or the other way around)…two completely different textures. It creates a problem with cutting and daily styling. After getting an email from a girl with this type of hair, I thought it would be a good idea to post about it here! She and the girls I know can’t be the only bi-texturals!

This can be caused by damage, or nothing at all! I know some people who after doing the Keratin treatment a few times experienced entire straight sections, I know people whose hair was damaged from bleach and lost wave, but I also know people with perfectly healthy/virgin hair that just likes to do its own crazy wonky thing! Silly hair!

First thing, make sure you find the right hair cut. This is very important. The first time I saw a girl with straight underneath and curly on top, I thought she had been given the most uneven haircut ever. It turned out it wasn’t uneven, it was just cut wet. Once the hair dried into it’s natural state, the curly hair shrunk up, leaving a huge gap inbetween the length and the layers. She had been unintentionally *shelfed! I undercut the length on this particular girl to make sure she is never shelfed again. So, make sure you explain very well to your stylist how your hair behaves naturally. Have a real discussion about how the hair cut may fix it (or at least enhance it). For example, using a razor to cut internal layers on the straight portion can encourage wave!

For styling, unfortunately you can’t just go natural (unless you like the bi-textural look). My suggestion is to use a curling iron to blend the straight parts with the curly parts. You don’t have to do every section, just the most troubled! Curl a few pieces from the curly section as well to blend those with the straighties. So it doesn’t look like the photo of me below!

*Shelfed [shelft]

1. A situation where a hairstylist has intentionally or unintentionally created a severely chunky layer not coordinating with the client’s length, simulating a shelf.

2. A person(s) who became victim to a stylist whose refusal to blend heavy layers ends up in an incredibly shelfy and unmanageable hairstyle.

“Have you seen Lisa’s new haircut? She’s been shelfed!”

Q by Carolyn: Does razor cutting make your ends more likely to split and get damaged? I like the look, but I always feel like my layers grow out “fluffy” after a razor cut.

A by Reagan: Yes and No.

Yes, when you’re comparing it to regular scissor cutting. No when you’re comparing it to no cutting at all. Any cutting is good for your hair’s health, but using a razor does thin your ends out, so when heat styling or chemical treatments start to get to it, your already thin ends will split faster than they would had they been blunt cut. But a razor isn’t damaging. Especially a very sharp razor. Razoring is a great way to add texture to your hair cut, and it can make styling so much easier depending on what type of cut you actually have. It can make your hair hold curl better and blow drying easier and faster, it’s a great technique.

Razor cuts are good for people who get their hair cut often, or who have short hair. If you are the -I get my haircut three times a year if that- person, I’d say skip the razor cut. Unless your stylist is using it on your fringe (bangs) or front angles.  Some of my short haired clients who I use a razor on say they go much longer between cuts because it grows out so nicely. So it is also very much a matter of preference.

What do you all think about razor cuts?