A trim and a gloss.


Posted in Products on October 25th, 2012 by Reagan

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You’d think working at a salon I could get my hair cut and/or colored any old day I fancy, but you know something? No one (including myself) ever has time. I have spent the last two weeks at work trying to squeeze a trim inbetween clients or during someone’s lunch. It finally happened today. Kristen spritzed down my hair with leave in conditioner and cut a totally straight line across the back. No time for any shaping and I did the world’s quickest blow dry on myself in order to look presentable for my next client. If memory serves…Kristen remarked how my ends were just “falling off” at the sight of the scissors. They were ready.

As for the color…I wrangled Carla into glossing me last week. Same story. She tossed on a gloss at the sink, hoping to layer it a few times for the perfect tone, but after the first round I realized I didn’t have enough time.  I don’t know what else she had in store but to me it looks perfect as it is.

And by the way, I still haven’t done any highlights since June, I’m totally going to make it to my goal for no highlights til December..and even beyond!

Treat your gloss right with color safe shampoo!

Oribe

Sachajuan

My formula.


Posted in Answers on April 13th, 2012 by Reagan

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One of the most common questions I get on this blog is “what is your color formula?”.

It’s like the “what’s your sign” of Hairdresser On Fire. Anyway, here are a few reasons I’ve never revealed my formula….

~I have no idea what it is.
~My colorist has no idea what it is.
~It’s complicated and impossible to do unless you are a professional

The way my colorist, Charlie, works is mostly visual. She doesn’t write anything down, and instead looks at the hair and decides what it needs based on the condition of it, the pre-existing color, and what I’m going for.  I like this because I never know how it’s going to turn out, I only know that I’m going to like it. I try to not guide her too much, and instead let her creative coloring mind and hands maul my hair in a good way. We generally do any and every variation of strawberry blonde there is, because it’s my absolute favorite color in the world to be, and I love that it turns out different every time.

Anyhair, I had a gloss the other day, and I had another colorist at my salon, Carla, do it. I finally got a wild hair and asked her what formula she was using for my strawberry/apricot/warm blonde*, and wrote it down for you. She layered two different glosses at the sink for me, here they are in order of appearance.

Eh hem..

First Layer:
1 oz. 9AA
1 oz. 9RB
2 Caps of O kicker
2 Caps of 8C
A dash of Clear gloss to dilute it.

Second Layer:
1 oz. 9RB
1 Cap of 9V
1 Cap of Red Kicker
A dash of Clear gloss to dilute it.

See why that basically requires a PHD in hair color to pull off?

For all you colorists/stylists out there, let me know if you try this and how it turns out! I’d love to hear back! And maybe I’ll start a trend of asking Charlie/Carla what formula they use each time and report to you here. Then we can laugh at how totally different it is every time. How’s that sound?

*If my haircolor was a food I would eat it.

More about the Gloss.


Posted in News on April 11th, 2012 by Reagan

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(Shades EQ by Redken is the gloss used in every salon I’ve ever worked at!)

I’ve mentioned glosses several times on HDOF and today is your lucky day, because I’m going to talk about them more. Hairray.

A short description of a gloss would be the following…A semi-permanent haircolor done at the shampoo bowl to achieve desired hair tone.

If you’re a blonde: You know, you can’t really be anything but plain old blonde unless you do a gloss after highlighting your hair. Bleach just pulls out color, and doesn’t tone as it’s pulling. It goes through the different levels as it lightens, but once those oranges and coppers are all sucked out and you have your blonde, that’s really just supposed to be your blank canvas. You have the whole world (I mean, color world) at your finger-tips at this point. You can do a peachy blonde, or a rosey blonde, a strawberry blonde, a golden blonde, an ashy blonde, etc. If you’re not trying to be a blonde and you just have highlights for dimension, you can also tone them down to just a shade or two lighter than your base color. Warm, cool, ash, whatever. You can do anything!

Also, toning your blonde hair makes for a much less frightful regrowth line.

If you’re not a blonde: Let’s say you had color forever ago but you grew it out. Now you have your natural down to your shoulders, and everything below that is some strange reddish (or other kind of ish) aftermath of your fading color process. You don’t want to dye over it because that defeats the purpose of going back to your natural. By doing a gloss, you are just toning those ends to match your natural so the growing out phase is a little less painful.

If you’re bored and dull: A gloss is a great way to freshen up your color. If you feel like the elements have dulled it inbetween color services, or even if you don’t color your hair, you can just slap on a gloss and feel new again. I have loads of clients who get their same exact color, just in a gloss for shine and umph. You can even get a clear gloss!

A gloss is very similar to a single process, except that it is translucent, and lays on top of the hair instead of penetrating it. The fact that it is translucent is what makes it so dang shiny. If you’ve ever had a gloss you know the shine I’m talking about.

A gloss is done after you shampoo the hair. It’s applied on wet hair and usually sits about 5-10 minutes before it is rinsed (not shampooed) and conditioned. It doesn’t require normal peroxide, so it causes no damage at all. Depending on what formula you use and what kind of condition your hair is in, it can last as long as 4 to 6 weeks.

Is there anything I’m missing? I’m pretty sure I’ve never said “gloss” or “shiny” so many times in my life. They do go hand in hand though!

Stay tuned for my gloss formula!

Divine Caroline: 5 tips to make your color last


Posted in Celebrities on March 22nd, 2012 by Reagan

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Today at Divine Caroline, I’m giving out my best tips for making color last as long as possible. Great for you color lovers (me!) who are looking for ways to get more of their money’s worth. Here’s to pretty color like Jessica Biel!

Click here for the story

Image from Divine Caroline