My formula.

Posted in Answers on April 13th, 2012 by Reagan

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One of the most common questions I get on this blog is what is your color formula?.

Its like the whats your sign of Hairdresser On Fire. Anyway, here are a few reasons Ive never revealed my formula.

~I have no idea what it is.
~My colorist has no idea what it is.
~Its complicated and impossible to do unless you are a professional

The way my colorist, Charlie, works is mostly visual. She doesnt write anything down, and instead looks at the hair and decides what it needs based on the condition of it, the pre-existing color, and what Im going for.  I like this because I never know how its going to turn out, I only know that Im going to like it. I try to not guide her too much, and instead let her creative coloring mind and hands maul my hair in a good way. We generally do any and every variation of strawberry blonde there is, because its my absolute favorite color in the world to be, and I love that it turns out different every time.

Anyhair, I had a gloss the other day, and I had another colorist at my salon, Carla, do it. I finally got a wild hair and asked her what formula she was using for my strawberry/apricot/warm blonde*, and wrote it down for you. She layered two different glosses at the sink for me, here they are in order of appearance.

Eh hem..

First Layer:
1 oz. 9AA
1 oz. 9RB
2 Caps of O kicker
2 Caps of 8C
A dash of Clear gloss to dilute it.

Second Layer:
1 oz. 9RB
1 Cap of 9V
1 Cap of Red Kicker
A dash of Clear gloss to dilute it.

See why that basically requires a PHD in hair color to pull off?

For all you colorists/stylists out there, let me know if you try this and how it turns out! Id love to hear back! And maybe Ill start a trend of asking Charlie/Carla what formula they use each time and report to you here. Then we can laugh at how totally different it is every time. Hows that sound?

*If my haircolor was a food I would eat it.

14 Responses to My formula.

  1. Kelly Says:

    Hi Reagan,,, :-) I have been thinking of a change up with my hair, but not sure I could rock your color damn it :-) And can I just say how absolutely gorgeous you look in these pictures?.really! Xo

  2. lisa Says:

    Do you do hair Colorado on your clients or just cut/styles? I like the formula strawberry Blondel is one of the hardest to do on a consistant basis, it does vary so much on the condition and base. When I show people a swatch of what I use on my roots they dont believe me, I use straight 8 a which of course is basically gray, but to get nice natural base it works. I pull ( like most) very warm. My base is very very natural looking.

  3. Alex Says:

    This explains why all my at home colouring is horrific. You lost me at sink.

  4. Ally Says:

    Looks lovely. Do you use Matrix?

  5. kati Says:

    hair colorado :)

  6. stealthnerd Says:

    Your curls look awesome in this post!!

  7. Courtney Says:

    What colour line? Im a colourist and you lost me after 9AA! lolol
    And why 2 layers?
    As in put one on and put the next layer over top? Or process and rinse in between?

  8. Jana Says:

    Haha this is how all of my color formulas look written out to!! Love it! I may have to try it out. Im needing a change but I always like to stay in the blonde family. I love Shades EQ- it has always been my very favorite gloss/toner. Ill let you know if I try it out on myself or one of my clients :)

  9. Allie Says:

    you look beautiful

  10. Says:

    AHHShades EQall time favorite! My shop has switched to Color Sync by Matrix for our Demi and I have learned to love it, as well. Best part, its quicker and no heat required. Cant tell you how many folks I have switched from Permanent to Demi color. Much less commitment and damage free. Whoo-hoo!

  11. Tiffany Says:

    Looks great! I use redken too but I would have never thought to put 9AA and RB together, I will have to try it!

  12. Katie S Says:

    I did it!! Yay I love it!! I followed the formula exactly, except for the red kicker in the second layer (Im in cosmetology school still and were always out of EVERYTHING I need). I rinsed in between layers, didnt know if I was supposed to so I just tried to make an educated guess. My hair just a little darker than yours, Reagan, so its not quite as strawberry sadly (I love your berry hue!) I definitely see the apricot though and my hair just looks so much richer! Thanks for posting it, Reagan!!

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  14. Aurora Says:

    I totally forgot how beautiful shades eq is!!
    Thanks for reuniting us! I stumbled onto your website searching for ombré techniques
    And I really want to says thanks for taking the time to post your work and your enthusiasm for
    Hair. You are generous with your knowledge and not a snotty know it all.
    Ive been a hair dresser officially for 20 years and Ive felt pretty lackluster lately. Thanks for making me like what I do again.


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